Small vintners, big values

THURSDAY, JUNE 22 2006
By Mari Stull

In keeping with my recent theme of profiling local wine shops and scouting out some of their best values, I visited Rick’s Wine and Gourmet in the Giant Shopping Center on Duke Street and found four wines that are worthy of the Vino Vixen seal of wine value approval (sort of like Good Housekeeping’s seal – but, much more useful…). Narrowing my value choices at Rick’s was no easy task – the selection is plentiful and varied, with an emphasis on smaller and lesser-known producers. I tend to gravitate to these types of vintners, because they are often family owned who care more about crafting a wonderful wine than creating profits. Rick’s has a terrific selection of these vintners and most average in the $10-$14 range. Doug Caslow, General Manager, ably helped me narrow my choices. Having lived in France for over a year with his wife and two sons, Doug honed his appreciation for good French wine and is responsible for the store’s amazing selection of Burgundies. So, this weeks recommendations are all small producers, and of course, all good values.

Red:
2003 Chateau Vaugelas - $8.99
Corbieres (France)
Elite Wine Importers

This lovely red wine from Corbieres is a blend of 30 percent each of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache with 10 percent Mourvèdre. It is then aged in oak for twelve months before bottling and the result is a very pleasing wine similar in style to a Chateanueuf du Pape, but at a fraction of the price. It has a peppery clove taste with a chalk finish. A surprisingly elegant wine for the price that will complement any meal – especially gamey meats and red sauces.

2004 D & N Primitivo del
Salento - $7.99
Salento, Italy
Michael Downey Selections

Like Zinfandel? And no, I am not talking “White Zinfandel” – I mean the real deal. If so, then this wine is for you. It has a fragrant nose of raspberry and spice. On the tongue, it has notes of plum and black cherry with a bit of clove and tobacco. This Primitivo is not as fruity as an American Zinfandel, which suits me just fine. This is a very drinkable, medium to full bodied wine. Try this with pizza or lasagna. Put a slight chill on this wine.

White:
2003 Pierre Boniface Apremont - $14.99
Savoie, France
Virginia imports

This wine is made from the Jacquère grape and is feather light, crisp and clear with notes of apple, lime and flowers. This wine is so light and refreshing, it feels like it sparkles in the mouth, Pale straw color, it has soft mineral and floral aromas. This wine is typically served with fondue – but, would make a great complement to summer salads or a simple cheese plate. This makes an excellent picnic or deck wine watching the sunset.

2005 Ken Forrester Petit Chenin -$8.99
Stollenbosch,
South Africa
Country Vintners
The Chenin Blanc grape originally hails from the Loire Valley in France. And if you imagine the Loire Valley with its grassy hills and floral countryside, this is the wine in that vision- with a South African twist. It has nice fruit notes of melon and citrus with a little honeysuckle to soften the fruity acidity. Next time you’re thinking about buying a simple Pinot Grigio, consider this wine, instead. It has much more finesse and character and due to the value of the South African Rand, it’s priced right. Ken Forrester specializes in Chenin Blanc and has been earning accolades and praises for their complexity and balance. Very quaffable – you’ll be wondering how the bottle emptied so quickly. Enjoy this one on its own or with chicken and spicier Thai dishes.

Have a wine question or comment for the Vino Vixen? She can be reached at VinoVixen@vinovixen.org or through her website www.vinovixen.org.

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