Euan Morton, Chris Sizemore, and Jeremy Kushnier star in “Chess” at Signature Theatre. (Photo: Scott Suchman)

Malbec is a red varietal wine I have customarily approached with caution. I've tended to view it as a ubiquitous, serviceable and affordable red, but rarely inspiring. The grape is a traditional Bordeaux blending variety ~ typically playing third or fourth fiddle in Bordeaux reds, if included at all; has long been produced as a single varietal wine in Cahors, a small, unsung winegrowing region in southwestern France; and occasionally appears in Meritage blends from California. Practically speaking, though, most of us know Malbec best as the signature red wine of Argentina, where the vines flourish in the shadow of the majestic Andes Mountains and whence the wine flows in burgeoning abundance.

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